Smoky Chicken Ragu with Mezcal, Chiles and Olives

Add the tomato paste and cook for another minute, stirring often. Add the mezcal and stir. Cook until all the liquid evaporates, about 2 minutes. Return the chicken and any juices to the pot and add the chicken stock. Increase the heat to high and bring almost to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low to maintain a gentle simmer. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is very tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Remove from the heat. Remove the chicken and set aside until cool enough to handle. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot (discard the vegetables, herbs, and spices). Set aside.

Pick the chicken into small pieces, discarding the bones and skin. Add the picked chicken to the pot with the strained cooking liquid. Set over high heat and cook, stirring continually, to reduce and concentrate the liquid, until it coats the back of a spoon, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the olives and stir well to combine. The sauce is ready to be used at this point, or it can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

To serve with pasta: In a large pot, bring 4 quarts water and 1⁄2 cup of kosher salt to a boil over high heat. Add 1 pound of short pasta, such as orecchiette or capunti, and cook according to the package directions. Drain and add the cooked pasta to the pot with the ragu. Add 1⁄2 cup of finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, 2 Tbsp. of fresh lemon juice, and 2 Tbsp. of unsalted butter, and stir well until creamy. Serve in individual bowls or on a platter and top with 1⁄2 cup of crumbled goat cheese, 1⁄4 cup of toasted pine nuts, and 1⁄4 cup of cilantro. Leftovers keep, tightly covered in the refrigerator, for up to 2 days.

Note: Moritas are 3- to 5-inch medium-hot red jalapeño peppers that have been dried and only lightly smoked, leaving them somewhat soft and fruity. If you can’t find them, substitute dried or canned chipotle peppers, but use only half the amount (3 chipotles).